String Instruments (guitar, violin, violoncello, mandolin, cavaco).
- Strings seem to make some buzz sound on a fretless instruments: instruments like the violin or the cello have a little curvature on the lenght of the fingerboard in order to assure that the strings don't touch it while vibrating. For that we need to remove the strings and make a proper adjustment and so calculate the gap we need to remove. If it's an old instrument the fingerboard might need a new replacement.
- My instrument make fret sounds: instruments like the guitar might have loose frets, frets not sitting well on the fingerboard, old frets or perharps a bent neck. There are two procedures, the full fret exchange or the gap adjustment (fret livelling). If the neck is bent it must return to its normal shape before anything else.
- Strings are too hight/low: among the most common factors for that error are, bridge wrong position, bigger bridge, bad nut or maybe the wrong level of the neck towards te instrument. The last case being more complicate since the neck might need to be removed and the projection angle corrected.
- The instrument is not on tune: the pegs might not be sitting well or just be old. Another cause for tuning probems is a bad nut or old one. On that case pegs must be adjusted or replaced as for the nut.
- The instrument is broken: cracks are reinforced internally, we use tradional techniques and materials for that kind of fix. Among those we use hyde glue and linen fabric or even little softwood pieces.
- The bridge is loose: in instruments like the guitar the piece that hold the strings to the top might not be sitting well, glue was a bad choice such another factors, no worries, we can fix it.
- The head is broken: the piece that holds the pegs is also the thinnest extremity of the neck and more succeptible to cracks if it falls. If that's the problem save all the pieces and bring it to us. If it's needed it will be internally reinforced and will be stronger than before.
- The neck is bent: it's only natural that with umidity variation, string tension the neck might bent a little. We have procedures to make it return to it's original state, in case we need we'll use some reinforcements. The fingerboard (usually hardwoods and darkwoods such as Jacaranda, Ebony, Ipê,) is where the frets are sitting, it must be hard to assure it's structure and sound quality.
- Can I put steel strings on a nylon Guitar: on the same way you should not put cello strings on a guitar you should never put steel strings on a nylon guitar. Steel strings have a much higher tension and that may leave to some serious problems such as side bent, cracks, loose bridge, and so on.
- I want a new lacquer on my instrument: author instruments should never have a new lacquer since it guarantees its sound originality and make it worth more. In those case those are quality lacquers such as the Laca and Tung oil and can be brushed up. As for factory instruments there are synthetical lacquers such as the PU and the Poliethirene, there are a few errors on those as the factories might "paint" elements that were supposed to be solid for structural reasons such as the purflings and the roseta. If that's a factory intrument we might need to replace the lacquer as the bad ones might cracks, have a yellow tone and make it looks ugly. As for customizations that will follow the client's taste and are welcome for that kind of instrument.
- The strings are always bursting: every edge might make a knucle and cut the strings, for that the saddle and the nut (white pieces of the guitar) must be adjusted properly. We do not reccomend to use plastic versions for those since they fade and as its soft it makes tuning harder and so the string tension might make them fragile as you need to keep tuning. As for the violin we follow the same rules.
In here there are a few doubts musicians make about repairs, everything can be fixed but the may leave a little "scar", if you want to know more do not exitate to ask, we are ready to answer. Also check one of the main parts of the instruments.
Woodwind Instruments: (Flauta/Saxofone)
- The key is jammed: flutes and saxophones have a spring mecanism that put keys back to place. Check if the instrument have a loose spring or broken. If everything is on place the spring might be lacking tension, in that case the instrument has to be dissassembled and a new tension must be put to it..
- Some notes are not sounding: look out for leaks, if you play a not and a consecutive lower note is not sounding the leak could be on that key. To check if that's the key we do a little percussion on the keys and a little note is heard, if not, it's probably leaking. If so the instrument must be dissassembled and evaluated.
- Cracks: on wood instruments cracks must be treated and the rings that prevent cracks must be removed. Normally it will need a little graft. On brass instruments the area must be resoldered and polished.
- The instrument won't tune: there are several factors that could prevent an instrument proper tuning. The first one are weather conditions and temperature changes. Above that there are geometrycal issues. Factory instruments might lack some quality and a simple replacement of the mouthpiece or adjustment might solve the problem. Leaking on the joints also make a hard intonation.
- The instrument is bent/deformed: a little dent wont't necessarily change the sound on a significative way. In some cases it's just aesthetics and try to make it look new might make a weak spot. As for benting it could need to be solved since it may prevent the instrument to be well mounted.
- My instruments rusty way too quickly: there are two factor tha might contrbute for corrosion such as external causes (sweat, sea saltiness, umidity) and also a low quality lacquer. For now we don't make lacquers on brass instruments since it might damage the parts and tuning and we would need top quality machines for that (not sold in Brazil). If it's a external cause we would reccomed to use powder on your hands and keep your hands teeth always clean.
- I have allergies to the metal: there are many ways to contour that problem, the simplest one is to use a lip protection tool, you can also replace your old mouthpiece for a new one. There are many materials such as wood, silver, gold, and so on. Actually we do not make mouthpieces for other brands but we can bring it directly from our providers.
- Temite and xylophogous: we can take up to months to kill the termites, no service can be done before that. The instrument is lock and fumigated on that period.
- How can I clean the instrument: for string instruments check out with the lacquer is synthetic or natural. We use trementine essence and a little piece of cloth to remove rosin and oil since it will not dilhute alcohol based lacquers or synthetic ones such as nytrocellulosis and polyurethane. After use you must remove whats with with a barely watered piece of cloth and then a dry cloth. As for woodwinds you can use a little swab for the holes and the very same trementine essence. You must avoid the pads since they can't surive chemical components. On that case always use a dry cloth while close to it. The best choice are those notebook and glasses cleaning clothes. We do not take responsibility on poorly made cleanings.
- Waranty: we warantee our service for at least six months for the services, but not for the acessories such as strings, frets, pads, and so on. Since that's something that has to do with the instrument use and storing. As for glued parts we can assure it for life as long it doesn't has a fall, cold, umidity variety, intese hotness and other improper uses of the instrument. To make other repair on the place that was fixed also invalidate our waraty terms.
- Sides (ribs)
- F Soundhole
- Micro Tuner
- End Pin
- Sguscio and purflings
1 Head Joint
2 Main Body
3 Foot joint
5 Stopper nut
6 Stopper screw and disc
7 Stopper cork
10 C key pivot rod
11 G key pivot rod
12 G key
13 Split E Key
14 C Key
15 Left Hand Section
16 Right Hand Section
17 Small Pad Washer
18 Big Pad Washer
19 Pad Screw
20 Tapered pivot rod screw
21 Key adjustment interlock screw
22 Flat Spring Screw
23 Flat Spring
24 Flat Spring
25 Thumb key pivot rod
26 Thumb Lever Bb
27 B Thumb Key
28 Trill Section
29 G# Key
31 G# pivot rod
32 Needle Spring
33 Post or Pillar
34 D# Key
35 C# Key
36 Foot joint pivot rod
37 C key, roller and screw